Gokje, op dit moment heb je waarschijnlijk een katoenen t-shirt aan. Wist je dat er 2.700 liter water nodig is geweest om dat shirt te produceren. En het houdt niet op bij de productie, ook het wassen van je kleding draagt bij aan de vervuiling van onze oceanen. Tevens is katoen het meest vervuilende landbouw product (verantwoordelijk voor 16% van het totale insectenbestrijdingsmiddelen gebruik.) De mode industrie is een van de meest vervuilende industrieën in de wereld, maar gelukkig groeit het bewustzijn en zijn er ook verschillende alternatieven beschikbaar. We zijn op onderzoek gegaan en hebben voor jullie de verschillende duurzame kleding alternatieven uitgezocht.
Duurzame kleding alternatieven
Voordat je al je kleding weggooit en je hele garderobe vervangt met hennep kleding stellen we je graag voor aan de verschillende alternatieven en opties die er liggen.
Katoen
Katoen hoeft namelijk niet per se sterk vervuilend te zijn. Bij de productie van biologisch katoen wordt er
bijvoorbeeld geen gebruik gemaakt van schadelijke chemicaliën, waardoor je een fijner eindproduct krijgt dat zowel langer meegaat en zachter aanvoelt, als geen schade is voor mens en milieu. Land van productie geeft ons ook veel informatie; zo zijn Ethiopië en Peru een van de oudste katoen producenten en de productie in die landen wordt veelal nog via traditionele en schone manier gedaan. Wel is er nog steeds veel water nodig voor de productie van nieuw katoen, dus echt duurzaam is het niet.
Je zou ook nog kunnen kiezen voor recycled katoen, maar daar zitten ook haken en ogen aan. Het recyclen van katoen is namelijk best lastig; om er weer bruikbare garen van te maken moet het textiel in hele kleine stukjes gehakt worden. En door dit proces is het lastig om de gewenste kwaliteit te waarborgen, want het resulteert in hele korte vezels. En niemand wilt natuurlijk een shirt waar gaten inzitten na 1 keer dragen.
Lyocell
Een populaire nieuwe stof is Lyocell, het is een stof die wordt gemaakt van de natuurlijke cellulose in versnipperd hout. De chemicaliën die gebruikt worden tijdens de productie hebben minimale impact op de natuur en de productie is tevens een zogenaamde ‘closed loop’. Dit houdt in dat alle chemicaliën die gebruikt worden volledig worden hergebruikt en zo geen afval water produceren. Dit maakt Lyocell ook volledig biologisch afbreekbaar. Wat ook handig is: Lyocell is anti-allergisch, anti-bacterieel (bye bye zweetgeur!) en ook flexibel inzetbaar.
Maar ook Lyocell heeft uiteraard een aantal punten waar je op moet letten. Sommige producenten gebruiken genetisch gemodificeerde Eucalyptus, of hout van niet-duurzame bossen. Als je zeker wilt zijn van je zaak kun je erop letten of de Lyocell gecertificeerd is met het merk Tencel®. Tevens is Lyocell vergeleken met overige alternatieven nog redelijk duur, hierdoor wordt het helaas nog niet heel veel gebruikt.
Bamboo
Bamboo is beetje een lastig geval voor duurzame mode; enerzijds is het een duurzaam landbouwproduct want het groeit heel hard en heeft geen bestrijdingsmiddelen, chemicaliën of extra water nodig. Maar wanneer er kleding van gemaakt wordt komen er in de productie wel weer veel chemicaliën bij en het proces is net als bij Lyocell geen ‘closed loop’. Hierdoor wordt er veel afvalwater geproduceerd. Dit omdat er viscose wordt gemaakt van bamboo en geen Lyocell. Gelukkig zijn er inmiddels ook producten die bamboo gebruiken voor de productie van Lyocell.
Laat je niet te hard afschrikken, voor al het andere gebruik is bamboo wel een heel duurzaam alternatief. Meubilair, bestek, borden of tandenborstels zijn allemaal vele malen duurzamer wanneer ze gemaakt zijn van bamboo.
Hennep
Daar is ie dan, hennep! Natuurlijk gaan we het ook even over hennep hebben, want hennep is mega duurzaam. Zo kan het overal groeien en hoeft er geen extra land voor vrijgemaakt te worden, heeft het geen chemicaliën nodig om te groeien en levert de twee keer zoveel vezels op als katoen. Helaas is hennep wel een lastig eindproduct waardoor de toepassingen niet eindeloos zijn, het lijkt eigenlijk een beetje op linnen. Kreukt heel snel en kan ook iets harder zijn, waardoor het niet altijd even comfortabel is.
Rayon, Modal of Viscose
Deze stoffen worden net als Lyocell in een ‘closed loop’ geproduceerd en zijn semi-synthetische stoffen. Deze stoffen worden allemaal gemaakt van hout en ook modal is bijvoorbeeld volledig biologisch afbreekbaar. Hierdoor wordt het ook vaak genoemd in het rijtje van duurzame alternatieven. Maar er ligt ook een ander ‘verstopt’ probleem bij de productie van deze stoffen, voor de productie in landen als Indonesië en China worden er jaarlijks 120 miljoen bomen gekapt om nieuwe kleding van te maken. De Rainforest Action Network heeft daarom ook een campagne gestart om mode-bedrijven over te halen te stoppen met de ontbossingen. Met succes, inmiddels hebben meer dan 100 bedrijven zich aangesloten!
Modal is hiermee niet per direct een slecht alternatief natuurlijk. Het blijft een beter product omdat het volledig biologisch afbreekbaar is en ook een schoon productie proces heeft. Belangrijk is om de labels te blijven lezen en onderzoek te doen naar de land van productie. In landen als de Verenigde Staten en Canada wordt veel gecertificeerd modal geproduceerd.
Consumptie verminderen
Nu we een stukje wijzer zijn over duurzamere stoffen is het tijd om stil te staan bij de overconsumptie in de mode wereld. De industrie is namelijk zo vervuilend en schadelijk voor het milieu omdat we allemaal heel graag nieuwe kleding kopen. Ook ik doe hier net zo hard aan mee, terwijl ik me heel bewust ben van alle problemen in de industrie (niet alleen milieu, maar ook mensenrechten en kinderarbeid is nog steeds een heel groot issue).
Het beste alternatief is en blijft natuurlijk minder consumptie en meer duurzame consumptie. Zelf probeer ik vaak een tijdje na te denken over de nieuwe dingen die ik wil en zo probeer ik na te gaan of ik die nieuwe jeans na een week net zo graag wil of niet. Of ik probeer verschillende situaties en outfits te creëeren met het nieuwe item. Persoonlijk koop ik ook graag tijdloze items en weet ik dat ik er jaren blij mee zal zijn.
Vorige week kwam er een leuke actie binnen in mijn mailbox, CollAction heeft een nieuwe campagne gestart en wilt graag met 2.500 mensen een ‘Slow Fashion Summer‘ doorbrengen. Wanneer je mee doet beloof je tussen 21 juni en 21 september 2018 geen nieuwe kleding te kopen. Tweedehands en ruilen mag! Wanneer 2.500 mensen meedoen wordt er samen 90 miljoen liter water bespaard en 360.000 kilogram aan CO2 uitstoot. Doe jij mee?
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